Real Guides: Sorrento, Italy by Raffaele Morvillo
Sorrento native and hospitality industry pioneer on how to do the Amalfi Coast the right way.
With a concierge business and over 80 properties in Sorrento under his management, you could say Raffaele Morvillo knows his hometown inside out. I was lucky to meet him when my husband and I were in town to plan our wedding. By great fortune we rented one of his properties for a week. We met for drinks at his partner’s stunning venue Villa Zagara Sorrento, which is available for private hire. The gardens are gorgeous and reminiscent of Tuscany, where Raffa also offers a selection of properties (but that is a guide for another time).
Raffaele’s company Sorrento Vibes offers private properties (think Airbnb but 100x more beautiful and authentic) and concierge services. When I told him about Real Guides it felt like a perfect match as he is working to offer travellers a similar real experience in Sorrento. In the past few years the business has grown massively… likely due to the fact that Sorrento is arguably the best base you could have when exploring the Amalfi Coast. The town itself is slightly more metropolitan and in turn is able to offer more than most of its neighbours in terms of restaurants, beach clubs and transport links to the Positano, Capri, etc.
It is easy to get caught in the throngs of overheated tourists on the Amalfi Coast. However, no matter how hot the weather, in Sorrento you feel as though you can breathe. The town has held on to its origins and continues to be a destination that is still full of Italians (this is less the case for its slightly more famous neighbours). This guide will feature all the spots the locals enjoy so you can keep cool, avoid the clichés and see something real instead.
Raffaele Morvillo’s Real Guide to Sorrento, Italy
To swim
If you are looking to swim in Sorrento, the best beach club is Bagni Salvatore, have your hotel call to book you sun loungers ahead of time (this is not mandatory, they also accept walk-ins). There are many steps down to the beach but there is also a €1.20 elevator service available if you prefer to avoid the hike.
If you are feeling up for something a little more adventurous, take a taxi to Bagni Regina Giovanna to swim amongst Roman ruins. Be sure to pack good swimming shoes and towels, as this is entirely on a rocky cliffside. There is no restaurant once you reach the Bagni Regina Giovanna so be sure to pack ahead.
To eat
If you are wondering where to eat whilst you are in town our favourite place is o Parrucchiano La Favorita, the restaurant that invented the Cannelloni. They also do a great plate of city's famous dish 'Gnocchi alla Sorrentina'.
Fauno Bar - This is a great place to get a coffee in the morning or an afternoon treat.
La Villa - This is a tourist trap but it is worth having a drink here in the early evening as the view is lovely.
La Pergola bar à champagne - A part of the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, this is a great place to have aperitivo.
La Cantinaccia del Popolo - This is a no-frills dinner spot popular with locals.
Ristorante Zi Ntonio - Two locations in Sorrento, I prefer the one in town, lots of classic old brown wood interiors.
Da Franco Food Philosophy - Napoli is the home of pizza… so whilst you’re nearby you should try one. This is the spot for pizza in Sorrento, a bit out of the way so less touristy.
O' Puledrone, Ristorante - The place for seafood in the port area.
Hortus - The new gourmet restaurant inside Villa Zagara. At a minimum you should visit just to wander around this glorious property.
To see
Villa Comunale di Sorrento - This is the main square with a lovely view.
Marina Grande - A cute marina with many seafood restaurants.
Corso Italia - Explore the shops local on this road and surrounding small streets.
Vallone dei Mulini - A beautiful, historic valley.
To dance
Daniele's Club - This is a wild, wonky but super fun karaoke bar quite literally sat in the middle of the iconic cliff in Sorrento town. Go in early to avoid a cover charge. Try not to fall off the cliff upon which it is perched.
Filou Club - A historic piano bar hidden down a cool narrow street off Piazza Tasso.
To buy
Stinga Tarsia - Sorrento is famous for its woodwork craftsmanship. This is the most famous shop to buy artisanal goods.Â
To stay
Any of Raffaele’s properties will be a perfect choice, especially if you are in a group. Make sure to visit their site: www.sorrentovibes.com.
If you’re looking for a hotel instead, see below.
Hotel Bellevue Syrene - The hotel is a zen jewel box perched upon the cliffs of Sorrento. It was formerly owned by the Astor family. Long before that, the hotel is believe to have served as a private villa for the Emperor Augustus when he was sent into exile for political reasons. The truly special thing about this hotel sits below it. Adjacent to the hotel beach club is a an ancient Roman grotto, originally used as ship storage. Today these Roman ruins host many events and parties. It really is a special space… as the legends goes it was once home to nymphs and sirens.
Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria - This is a beautiful, old-world hotel. This place is reminiscent of an Amalfi Coast of the past. It has lovely surrounding gardens and is located right in the centre of town, so it is both convenient and beautiful. It is worth visiting for an aperitivo.
Closing notes…
If you are interested in exploring the rest of the Amalfi Coast, Sorrento works as an excellent base. Whilst you might be tempted to stay in the others, I would only do so if you plan to relax in that town alone. Most of these towns are tricky to move between and in peak season the ferries are packed and the winding roads are full of traffic (I only advise renting a car if you are a truly confident driver).
From Sorrento, you can easily reach Positano, Amalfi and Ravello as well as the islands of Ischia (check out our guide to the island), Capri and Procida. Mount Vesuvius and Pompeii are also nearby. Seeing at least one or two of these other areas is a must during your visit. You will have the most travel options from Sorrento as it is considered slightly more metropolitan for the area.
To make things easier and more enjoyable, you should always call our friend Raffa, who can organise private transport in the area, from cars to boats, so you have a relaxing experience and still see it all through the eyes of a local. You can use his site to book tours and handcrafted experiences in the surrounding areas. They also offer food tours and activity options to explore Sorrento itself, as we have a feeling after reading Raffa’s guide you will feel very little desire to leave the heavenly spot that is Sorrento. 1
Photos by Morlotti Studio, Sorrento Vibes and Alessandra De Costanzo.
Sounds so beautiful can’t wait to get to sorrento