Real Guides: Ischia, Italy
Discover the Mediterranean island through the eyes of a local.
The Real Ischia Guide
Welcome to our very first real guide! This guide holds a special place in my heart. I’ve been updating this for over ten years. It all started many moons ago, when Ischia was a far less popular travel destination. My family originally comes from the island (on both sides!) and when that first friend asked for a guide years ago I decided to compile what you see below. Over the past decade, the demand for this guide has increased massively. I’ve emailed it to so many people at this point that I’ve lost count.
Whilst I am overjoyed Ischia has grown in popularity, I am weary as the island is not like its neighbours Capri and Amalfi. To truly see Ischia you need a bit of help. To visit the island and not see it through the eyes of a local would be such a loss that just the idea of it breaks my heart! This is why I am so happy to finally have a place to share this guide publicly. I hope with this guide that everyone who visits gets to have the same special experience I’ve cherished my entire life, as when you step on to the island it truly transports you to another time, another universe entirely.
To swim:
Giardini Poseidon Terme - Best thermal pool place on the island, worth doing. Has a really nice cafe inside for lunch and coffee breaks. Also has a spa with good treatments. I like to stay until closing time on a Sunday and then walk over the the sunset aperitivo party hosted by Bagno Theresa just a few beach clubs over. Once a summer they’ll bring in a bigger name DJ. The combination of thermal waters, delicious food, golden sunsets and great music never misses.
Spiaggia dei Maronti - This is a nice beach. There are a few big “main” beaches on the island but I would say this is the highest quality one. Walk to one end to visit Cavascura, an old Roman thermal spa where you can take a volcanic bath and get a mud mask. You can also eat at the Fumarole here, which is a place where they bury the food deep in the sand and cook it with the heat of the volcanic water. If you want to just sit on the beach, get some chairs and have lunch at Ristorante Bar Lido Nettuno. If you want more of a party vibe walk to the far east end of the beach, some of the beach clubs there play electronic music and have a younger crowd. For a more rustic experience, walk all the west and sit beneath the cliffs on the volcanic sand (be careful, it is quite literally fenced off and steaming volcanic exhaust some days). You can take a water taxi to/from these places if you're staying in Sant'Angelo. You can also just drive there and park at the various lots at the the bottom of the hill if you’re coming by car.
Giardino Eden - Get lunch and go for a swim with the beautiful castle in the background. make sure to book in advance. Take a water taxi here from below the Castello Aragonese for the scenic route.
Sorgeto Hot Springs beach - Natural hot springs beach. It is not very big and gets packed in the summer so I prefer to go here in spring or autumn. This is also amazing for a night swim but be careful! You may want to bring swimming shoes. It is hard to access so prepare for lots of stairs! The restaurant La Sorgente at the top is also a nice place if you need something nearby. Sit in the garden and order fish.
Fonte delle Ninfe di Nitrodi (parco termale) - Natural hot springs that have been used as a spa for over 2000 years. Hang out and take volcanic showers and read a book. This place is a bit strange but it is cool to see if you are on the island for some time. This is also a destination for those who are looking to improve their skin.
To eat:
Ristorante Dal Pescatore - This is in Sant'Angelo, an area that is seen as a bit glitzier than most of the idea. This place is great for lunch or dinner. Order a whole fish. Make sure to also have a piece of one of their many cakes (get the classic torta Caprese). Fun place to sit and people watch. This will give you a dose of the Capri vibe.
La Taverna del Pirata - This place is also in Sant'Angelo. Good for huge plates of pasta to share or pizzas. Warning, this is a touristy location but I truly feel it is worth it for the few just once (the same goes for Dal Pescatore, just above).
Il Bracconiere - For the adventurous. This is up in the mountains of Ischia, most people do not visit this part of the island but it is also stunning and gives you a good picture of local life. Ask your hotel to organize a taxi to get there and back as its impossible to reach. Preorder the rabbit if you eat rabbit. Get the house pasta dish as well. The pasta patate is also incredible. Ask your cab driver to stop in Serrara for an amazing view before dinner if you are coming via that side of the island.
Al Pontile - Sit in the back so you can see the castle. This is a lovely little local place run by a very nice family. Food is best out of that strip of restaurants. Chill place for dinner.
La Bella Napoli Restaurant - If you are Forio and want a sit down dinner. Forio is a bit of a buzzier and more laid back town.
Il Pizzicotto - Tiny place for a very authentic pizza in Forio.
Bar Calise - Go to the location in Ischia Porto (Via Antonio Sogliuzzo, 69). This is an incredible old world cafe. Get coffee and a pastry or an afternoon snack here. You'll see a few locations of this place on island, but the one listed here is the original and worth a visit.
Ice Da Luciano - Unassuming gelato stand. Very good quality and near the castle.
'O Napulitan - This is in Fontana (so very off the beaten path). It’s also the village my family is from and the place where most tourists never visit… unless they are looking to hike Mount Epomeo, in which case they pass through the village center. I don’t recommend doing this hike during the summer unless you are very athletic as in the heat it can be super strenuous. This is a tiny Neapolitan run spot that is great for a super authentic dinner. It is best to just order whatever they say they are making that day. Wander around the piazza after dinner to see a Rio sized sculpture of Jesus.
Daní Maison - Michelin stars in a unique garden space.
To drink:
Bagno Teresa - I mentioned this earlier in the guide. This is a beach club on Spiaggia di Citara (my second favorite beach on the island). They do an aperitivo party in the evenings on Sundays which is fun. They get some good DJs there each summer that play sets on the beach as the sun sets. Very fun to do a spa day at Poseidon and then just walk over for a drink afterwards.
Riva Destra - This literally translates right side of the port. This is where there are loads of bars, its quite a funny "scene". This area is full of nightlife so if you decide to go just visit message me and I can connect you with a friend of mine who is a local DJ.
Blanco Disco Club Ischia - Club on the beach. After a night out here take a swim next door to wash it all off!
To shop:
Galleria Mario Mazzella Di Mazzella Luca - A painter from Ischia that I love. This is his gallery where you can see/buy original works and signed prints.
Nice clothing boutiques on the island include: Il Pelicano, La Caprese, A'putechella, Sergio Modamare (beachy shop with various locations). These are mostly in Sant'Angelo and Forio.
To visit:
Best areas to go for a stroll in the evenings: Sant'Angelo, Ischia Ponte, Forio.
Chiesa del Soccorso - A beautiful church in town of Forio. Very photogenic. Go at golden hour to snap some enviable holiday photos.
Monte Epomeo - Hike to the top of island. Organize for a taxi to bring you to base of the hike Fontana and back. make sure you get a cappuccino and corneto at Bar Epomeo, they are the best. Be warned, this is a big hike so only go if the weather is not too hot and you are in Ischia for at least a few days so you don’t lose a day doing this.
Castello Aragonese - The castle on the island. You can visit the inside. Michelangelo once lived here. There is a small hotel in the castle. The lower area used to house a nightclub.
Casa Museo - Honestly the MOST BIZARRE "museum" you will ever visit. It’s sort of creepy. It starts with a huge sphinx installation and ends with a cliffside hammock. I would not go out of the way to see it, but if you happen to be passing by, go inside. It’s free and you will be fascinated.
I also recommend asking your hotel if they can organize a sail around the island - a 'giro dell'isola' - preferably a private one instead of the packed touristy boats.
To stay:
Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa - A newer addition to the island, super stunning. This is where you stay if you want to embrace the luxe side of the island.
Albergo Della Regina Isabella - Old school glamour. This place has a rich history and a lovely aesthetic.
Miramare Sea Resort & Spa - a small hotel in Sant'Angelo, I believe it was recently redone entirely and is even more glamorous than before. Personally, I love the location of this hotel.
Terme Manzi Hotel & Spa - This is right in the main port so there is a lot to do in the evenings. It is also a good transport hub to get buses/taxis and explore the island if you do not have a car. I believe it was also recently remodelled. Out of the less expensive hotels, this is the most famous.
There are also loads of nice more affordable hotels and Airbnbs on the island. Best areas to look into are Sant'Angelo followed by Forio if you want a walkable location. Alternatively there are some lovely large villas you can rent that usually require a car.
If you need a car hire visit Autonoleggio Mario Balestrieri Ischia. He’s the guy with the shaggy long blonde hair. He’s very laid back and so are his cars (expect a beat up Fiat), but they are perfect for the island. Or rent an open-air golf cart if you’re feeling adventurous.
Ad Ischia, dove si mangia, si beve e si fischia. // Ischia, where you eat, you drink and you whistle.
Thank you for reading!
All photographs by Alessandra De Costanzo.