Real Guides: Napoli, Italy
Embrace the beautiful chaos of this complicated city.
Napoli Guide
Napoli is a city that is often misunderstood. It has a complicated reputation for a reason. The city is one of extremes. It is the city of chiaroscuro. The dark energy is washed away by a bleaching sun. The crime is balanced by the incomprehensible beauty. The looming volcano is perched against a turquoise sea. It is both scary and breathtaking. Everything feels on the verge of collapse, yet continues to function (even thrive), adding a certain novelty to the mundane.
When I try to articulate what’s special about Napoli I always feel Andy Warhol did it best, "I love Naples because it reminds me of New York.”
Like New York, Napoli is a vibrant place teaming with creativity and magic. People either love it or hate it. As a New Yorker and Neapolitan, I firmly believe that both cities should be universally loved. I hope this guide helps people to understand why.
Napoli is hauntingly beautiful… You just need to remember, the charm is in the chaos.
Napoli, Italy
To do
Have a walk through this area to get a feel for everyday life in Napoli. Enjoy the street vendors and laundry drying in the alleyways. There is a fun old school comic book shop at the top of the area on Via Montesanto next to the Eurobets shop. Also check out Cozzolino for clothes and Spiedo d’Oro for food. After you’re done, walk to the bottom of Via Toledo and follow the next step in the guide.
The main shopping road. This is a road with a lot of shops you’ll find elsewhere, but it is still fun to check out. It is also home to Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano.
Same idea - more upscale. Some shops worth visiting include: Mariano Rubinacci (some of the best tailoring in the world) and Tramontano (beautiful hyperlocal leather goods).
Walk along the water. Start at the Ovo Castle and walk toward the direction of Mergellina. Finish by looping back and having a pizza at Gino Sorbillo Lievito Madre al Mare (there are several locations of Gino Sorbillo, this is my favorite).
Grab a snack at Gran Caffè Gambrinus (one of the most beautiful cafes in Napoli) and enjoy it on the steps of the piazza.
See a performance! Or go on a guided tour of the famous opera house.
The old center. Have a walk around the area. This is one of the areas you see in all the postcards.
Check out the city from below. Make sure you use this company. The rest are not the official tour. I am not normally one to recommend a guided tour, but this is special.
Famous for its figurines of Neapolitan characters and nativity scenes. This street is truly is wild, worth a seeing once. Great place to get a novelty gift.
See the famous veiled Christ sculpture.
This museum has a remarkable history, both architecturally and culturally. See what is also thought to be Caravaggio's last work, The Martyrdom of Saint Ursula.
Another excellent museum worth visiting.
To buy
As mentioned above: Sartoria Rubinacci and Tramontano.
Napoli is also teeming with cool vintage. I always visit Doctor Vintage.
To stay
Old school Napoli glamour. This is the place to stay (Tony Soprano agrees). They also do a nice aperitivo at the rooftop bar.
Renaissance Naples Hotel Mediterraneo
A functional hotel in town with a nice rooftop pool area.
To eat and drink
This is the pizza place that is super famous. I do not think it is worth the hype but it is super fun to check it at least once as it can get pretty crazy in there.
This is my favorite place to eat in Napoli. The food is amazing, simple and cheap. The coffee at the end is free (yay). The chaos is as real as it gets. Best for lunch.
An iconic coffee spot. Get an espresso on the bar and then go wander around Piazza del Plebiscito.
Another insane coffee spot. Get one of their nutella espressos on the bar.
Gino Sorbillo Lievito Madre al Mare
There are a few locations of this pizzeria. This one is my favorite for its location. Make sure to sit outside on warm days and enjoy the shades of Napoli blue on the horizon.
Antica Pizza Fritta da Zia Esterina Sorbillo
Get a fried pizza here. Be prepared to need recovery time after ingesting
Get a sfogliatella pastry at the stand and eat it whilst wandering through the Galleria Umberto I.
This is just a simple drinks stand but it is fun. Get one of their exploding lemon drinks. You have chug it on the spot. Perfect on super hot days as a pick-me-up.
My favorite very old school gelato shop. Casa Infante nearby is also good for gelato if this is closed.
Funky spot for aperitivo hour.
This is just a quiet spot to get an easy dinner. Mostly serves locals in this neighborhood.
No-frill joint in the Pignasecca.
