Real Guides: London, UK (Part 2)
Part 2 of the London guide series: north London.
Time for part 2 of the London guide series. Over my many years of living in London I always either lived in north or west London. Given I married a man from Hampstead I thought I would continue my London guide series there.
In a previous guide I touched upon the many parks on offer in the area, from Hampstead Heath to Primrose Hill, north London is famously leafy. However, the area has a lot more to offer than its green spaces. Whilst it is for the most part a quiet and residential area, north London is also place that holds a rich cultural history. It is a romantic place, full of gorgeous architecture and lovely little hidden gems.
Below I will break down my favourite spots by neighbourhood. Enjoy!
Hampstead
Hampstead is a village in the heart of London. It is one of the most photogenic areas in the city, with each cobblestone lane more whimsical than the next.
To eat & drink:
La Crêperie de Hampstead - If you are going to eat only one thing in Hampstead, make sure it is a crêpe complète (or a lemon sugar if you’re feeling sweet). Beware of the new knock off stand immediately next to this one (they are unrelated). I have spent a lot of time in France and honestly I could not find a single crêpe I liked more than these. I know that saying this will cause some drama, but I am prepared to take any flak.
Mani’s - a great spot to grab a coffee and some takeaway lunch to enjoy as a picnic in the park. This is one of the few old-school, unbranded British cafes in the area. A lot less pretentious than many of its neighbours so expect a simple, no frills experience.
The Holly Bush - A perfect (and very famous) Hampstead pub for lunch before a walk in the Heath (especially if you’re looking to take a postcard worthy photo).
The Duke of Hamilton - I prefer to visit this pub after an evening walk as it is best for dinner. There is also a secret jazz club in the basement. Nightlife is rare in Hampstead, so this is your spot.
The Spaniards Inn - This is another iconic pub. The location is what makes this place interesting. Great for the end of a walk in the Heath.
To do:
Explore nature (Hampstead Heath, the Vale of Health, the ponds) - Read more on this in Part 1 of our London guide series.
Explore a graveyard - This might seem morbid to some but the tiny graveyard alongside St John-at-Hampstead Church is beautiful and full of history. It is also the home of the tomb of John Constable (for all the Romanticism fans).
On the topic of cemeteries… Whilst not technically in Hampstead, Highgate Cemetery just across the Heath is also worth a visit. It is probably London’s most iconic cemetery.
Kenwood House - At the top of the Heath sits this former royal residence. It is home to an extensive art collection. It is fun to explore its many rooms and imagine a time when London was much smaller and a Hampstead home would have been considered a countryside escape.
To buy:
I am a huge fan of thrifting and Hampstead is home to many glorious ‘charity shops’, with Mary’s & Shelter as some highlights.
Sadly my favourite place to shop in the area, the Hampstead Antique & Craft Emporium, recently closed. The secret little alleyway it once called home remains if you want to explore it nonetheless. It was a fun place to discover one-of-a-kind items. However, it has been reported that a few of the vendors have moved to Alfies in Lisson Grove, so if you want to support them you’ll have to leave Hampstead.
St John’s Wood (and Maida Vale)
St John’s Wood is likely best known for the iconic Beatles Abbey Road album cover, however, the area has a lot more to offer than a photo op.
To eat & drink:
Panzer's Delicatessen - This is the ‘scene’. If you want to get a sense of the area as a whole, check out this ‘deli’. It features a mix of the local British Jewish food culture as well as an American influence thanks to the huge expat community in the area. Also home to the best bagels in London. It was recently revamped, so expect a luxe vibe. Great for breakfast, lunch or groceries.
Cafe Laville - This little cafe sits upon the canal. It is a nice place to sit and drink coffee.
The Duke of York - This is the best pub in the high street area.
The Clifton - This is the best pub off the beaten path. They do a weekly pub quiz that is fun.
Morso - Great for pasta. If you want something un-touristy, cute, small and local.
The Summerhouse - The selling point here is the fact that you are sat directly on the canal. Despite the name, I would say this restaurant is lovely all year long.
Soutine - The best place for dinner on the high street. By The Wolseley Hospitalty Group.
To do:
Paddington Rec - This is a small park seemingly tucked down a side road. The great thing about this park are the tennis courts, open for anyone to book.
Abbey Road Studios - I said I would include some obvious recs in these guides. This is one of those. This place is a cliche but it is definitely worth taking a peak at a piece of music history (if you’re into that sort of thing).
St John’s Wood Church Gardens - A peaceful little garden away from all the shops and restaurants. Grab picnic bits at Panzers and enjoy them under the umbrella of the trees.
Lord’s Cricket Ground - Even if you aren’t a fan of cricket, this is an iconic venue worth seeing once.
Walk along the canal - start at the bottom of St John’s Wood and follow it all the way to Maida Vale and Little Venice, with Rembrandt Gardens as your final destination. Or walk in the opposite direction to hit Camden Lock.
To buy:
Clifton Nurseries - A garden shop nice enough to visit even if you don’t live locally.
Again, I would advise to visit all the charity shops. St John’s Wood High Street & Elgin Avenue are both goldmines for thrifting.
Camden
This area captures North London’s punk spirit. Whilst Hampstead was known for its academics and artists, Camden is known for its rock stars.
To eat:
I would not advise eating in the Camden Lock Market. Whilst it might seem tempting… the Lock as a whole has seen better days. The recent heavy gentrification has changed it for the worse. That being said there is still plenty that is great about Camden.
To drink:
KOKO - Recently revamped, this is a historic venue with great live music bookings and DJs. Cafe KOKO is also a solid choice for a fun dinner before a night out in the area.
The Hawley Arms - This is the pub Amy Winehouse herself supposedly saved from going under back in the day.
The Constitution - This is the pub I would go to if the weather is nice. There is canal side outdoor seating.
Prince Albert - Another Camden pub with decent outdoor space. Great for summer days.
Roundhouse - Another iconic music venue. It gets its name… from its shape.
To do:
Camden Lock Market - This market has a huge history. It has changed a lot (overdevelopment) over the years, but the essence is still there. Cyberdog is a particular favourite if you’re into old school rave culture.
St Pancras Gardens - A green area on the edge of Camden.
Primrose Hill
Just around the corner from Camden is its much preppier but still bohemian in spirit neighbour, Primrose Hill. Named for its iconic hill, this small area has a lot to offer beyond its iconic view of the London skyline.
To eat & drink:
Sam's Cafe Primrose Hill - The closest thing you’ll find to an American diner… but don’t worry, this place is still very British. It bills itself as a classic British cafe, but the quality is clearly higher than the average. Its a perfect spot for breakfast or an easy lunch.
Primrose Bakery - If you’re in the mood for a sweet treat this is the place.
The Lansdowne Pub & Dining Room - A pub tucked down a side road. I particularly like sitting outside on their big picnic tables on the warmer days.
The Queen’s - This is the pub I would visit after a long walk in the park. They’ve got a nice collection of board games and a decent scotch egg (if you’re brave).
Lemonia - A slightly more upscale but still relaxed Greek restaurant. Nice for big groups and people watching.
Little Bread Pedlar - This is where to get your carb fix in the area.
The Little One Coffee Shop - Where to grab a coffee for your walk through the park.
Chloe's Espresso - This sits on the bridge that connects Camden and Primrose Hill. It is a cute coffee shop in an unusual location.
It’s Bagels - A relatively new bagel shop. I used to order these when they were only available via a weekly Sunday drop. One of the founders is a photographer who spent time living in NYC.
Pesantissimo - This was the closest thing I could find to Italian-American food when I was missing it during my years living in London. The name means ‘very heavy’, so expect to feel exactly that after you visit.
To do:
Climb Primrose Hill. Enjoy the view. More on that in Part 1 of our London guide.
Lavender on the Hill - Whilst Cowshed is the more famous spa on this high street, I particularly love this place. They treat massage like medicine.
To buy:
I’m going to sound like a broken record, but again this is a great area for charity shops. Mary’s is particularly good.
Primrose Hill Books - A cute, small book shop with a nice selection.
Bottle Apostle - For the wine loves.
Richard Dare - A great little homewares shop. I love buying gifts here.
Honourable mention: Belsize Park.
This neighbourhood is a beautiful but tiny. If you want to check it out go sit outside Roni’s with a coffee and watch local life pass by. Walk along Belsize Lane.
More please was great to read from fresh perspective
Summed up nw3 and it’s environs in a fabulously interesting bite sized way I am going to start exploring !!